Beans are the unsung heroes of Oaxacan cuisine, grown together with different squashes and corn on a milpa, the traditional intercropped plot. Stewed with avocado leaves or epazote and served over rice, filling tamales or tortas or topping tlayudas, they are indispensable but rarely celebrated all on their own.
Amicar Hernandez and Paulina Rovilla opened this legume-centric spot near Museo Rufino Tamayo to give frijoles their much-deserved share of the spotlight. Their other mission? To bring back affordable family meals in this city where tourism is driving up restaurant prices.
This cheery spot, bright with papel picada and posters of corn, is dominated by giant earthenware ollas (pots) holding different bean stews with whimsical names, slow-cooked over wood fire by Sagraria Carvajal, the restaurant’s Zapotec chef.
A dish of refried black beans topped with broken up chicharron called “difuntos” (deceased) is her homage to a specialty served to mourners at wakes in her village. For a stew called “colágeno” she simmers black beans with gelatinous pigs feet until unctuous and collagen rich—a popular Oaxacan hangover cure.
Another pot might contain pinkish-brown bayo beans cooked short of forever with sausage, bacon, pork chop, and ham—in a kind of Oaxacan feijoada—to be eaten with squirts of lime and sharp pickles. For something more cholesterol-virtuous, Carvajal prepares a dish called “fit” with black beans, an anise-y wild herb called hierba de conjejo, corn masa dumplings, and zero animal protein.
Frijoleria sources its seasonal heirloom beans from traditional farmers in the area of San Miguel Tanichico Zaachila known for its milpas. The tortillas are made by a special artisan at the 20 de Noviembre market, and to foster a community spirit the owners support local musicians and wrestlers. Don’t be surprised if a character in a lucha libre cape and mask sits at the next table.