Jewish people have been living in Rome for over 2,000 years. In 1555 a Papal decree confined the entire community to a ghetto near the Tiber. Here, some of the city’s cucina ebraica staples were perfected and codified: chrysanthemum-shaped carciofi alla giudea (fried artichokes), puffy fritters, rich ricotta crostatas. Lately, alas, Rome’s Ghetto Romano has been resembling a stage set for tourists with restaurants resting on their greasy laurels, and lines at the classic Pasticceria Boccione stretching for blocks.
Where do actual Romans go for cucina erbarica? Follow them to this no-frills cafeteria in the unglamorous part of Trastevere near its famous Sunday flea market, Porta Portese. A combination tavola calda (deli with prepared food) and fresh pasta takeout shop (the name means “there’s pasta…and pasta!”) the homey spot with a few tables inside and some on the sidewalk delivers a primer of Rome’s Jewish flavors undiluted for tourists—and certified kosher.
The huge selection behind the glass counter is daunting but the briskly friendly young staffers will annotate the food in English (or Spanish or French). Yes, there are fried carciofi in season (from winter to early spring) as well as blazing-red roasted peppers, fried marinated zucchini called concia, and plump rice-stuffed tomatoes. Among the pastas, choose the delightful cacio e pepe lasagna. And pay special attention to fish specials, such as orata (sea bream) roasted under a layer of thin-sliced potatoes, and aliciotti con indivia, an iconic Jewish dish of fresh anchovies baked in a casserole under a cap of slightly bitter green curly escarole. No way around it, you’ll order too much and won’t regret it a bit.